JGRO ROUTER PDF

If you look at step 13 of this how-to project, the second generation gantry was all cut out by the machine. Diary of a FoamCutter building a jgro router table. It should be easy to invert the code used to cut the airfoil. They went together easy, cutting the components with the table saw. Well here I am, bitten by the CNC bug.

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You can find the same plans and follow along with my build progress by going to CNC Zone and downloading them from the downloads section. You can also get the plans as zipped DXF files from there as well. If you have downloaded and opened the plans you will see this is the first page. When I looked over the plans, I thought I would start with the router table the Y axis and work my way up, but after some reading on CNC Zone I decided it would be better to start with the Z Axis the part that will hold the router and work my way out.

I decided to take this approach so that if there are any differences in measuring, I can adjust new parts to fit the ones I have already made. To start out, I took some graph paper and went through the plans and laid out all the pieces I would need to build the router.

If you are uncomfortable with this process, It has been done for you in a post on CNC Zone along with a piece of software that will help you with the process. You can read about it by going to this thread on CNC Zone. One thing they talk about is First Cut Fever. That is the feeling you experience right before you start the project, not wanting to mess it up you get a little apprehensive about making the first cut.

And I expected to. I have never used MDF before but I have to admit, it is really easy stuff to work and that is saying something with my limited wood working ability. One thing I feel I should point out is that when you cut MDF the resulting dust is very fine and gets on everything. I would cut outside if weather permits and make sure you use safety glasses and a dust mask. It is always better to be a little over safe than sorry! I think I will start with some simple pieces that will not affect other dimensions first.

I decided I would start with the Y axis pipe rail supports first. Surprisingly they come out pretty good. This left me with a nasty ragged edge on the bottom of the block. The next one I ran the bit through just enough so the tip of the bit would poke through the other side, then flipped it over and finished up.

It is over sized by. After drilling a tapping the four outer holes I soaked the threads down with Super Glue to help strengthen them. The only difference is that they are a little smaller.

Instead of being 2. I will do these next just to have them done. I finished up the X and Z axis pipe rail support blocks. These were made just like the Y axis blocks above. I was surprised how long these took to complete, well at least until I thought about it a bit.

So I guess it should have taken a little while. I do want to mention something about the super glue. Super glue is a respiratory and eye irritant. Breathing the fumes can be rough on you. I find it best to follow the recommendations someone made on cnczone, take them all outside, sit with a breeze to your side and glue them up. I done these blocks in my kitchen and by the time I was half done my eyes were starting to burn pretty good.

Just something I wanted to pass along. Well I can think of nothing else to waste space by this picture so I will move on. Next I decided to work on the Z axis. My thoughts for doing this was that I would be working from the inside of the machine to the outside. This picture is the front of the Z axis. Notice that the router clamp has not yet been fabricated. I cannot decide what I am going to use as a router for this machine. I want something better than a Dremel tool but not too awful expensive at this point.

I was thinking of a rotozip. Has anyone got any ideas about what to use? I would like to hear from you. You can This email address is being protected from spambots.

You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Here is a picture of the back of the Z axis. Notice that I do not have the anti-backlash nut installed or the roller blade bearings. I still have to get these parts. I will most likely be starting on the X axis parts tonight if I have time. I am starting to get the bug to get this project rolling along a little faster than what it is. After looking at so many homemade machines across the Internet and at cnczone, I am itching to make my first cut.

Be sure to stop by once in a while to see where I am at on the project! Have fun. I did manage to find some skate bearings and attach them to the Z Axis bearing supports. I thought I would include a picture so you can see them attached. I was surprised to discover just how smooth this arrangement slides.

Getting the bearings has spurred me to do more tonight. I started on the X-Axis. I have the X axis platform and the X axis top plate finished.

I am hoping that I can get a little more done tomorrow night. I think as long as I stick to my theory that a little work on the machine frequently will get more done than a lot of work infrequently will get me done with it sooner holds out I will be fine.

You know how it can go sometimes, You get engrossed in a project and then near the end life has a way of jumping in front of you and making you attend to it. I will try to post a picture as soon as I finish the X axis bottom plate. All of the X Axis parts have been cut out and any holes that needed threading have been threaded. I still need to super glue the threads and make the bearing slides for the X axis before this part will be done. In all truthfulness, I probably should have been finished with this assembly by now but I got side tracked.

More on that in a bit. For those of you following along with the plans in hand, you will notice that the bearing hole for the lead screw has been piloted and nothing else.

If I make another machine I will go for better hardware for lead screws at that time. Stepping Off The Main Path - ;- pun intended A lot of research time and energy went into deciding what to do about controlling stepper motors. I played with a bunch of circuits ideas and even built a couple.

But the more I learned about controlling steppers and the circuits that do that job, the more I moved away from building them myself. I should have listened as it would have allowed me to be further along on the project than what I am now. Next time Bob, I will try to listen a little better!

The next best thing to do is drive them with a circuit that senses current and will turn the voltage to the coils on and off to maintain a predefined current level through the coils known as a chopper circuit. Then if you need more resolution you can microstep but that requires more circuitry.

Well to make a long story short, I think you can buy a kit and build it cheaper than you can fetch the components and make the circuit board for yourself. Not to mention, de-bugging is simpler. There are quite a few kits available through the web to drive stepper motors.

Some are better than others, some are capable of driving larger motors. I am not advocating them as the best controller available. I urge you to check around and get what suits your needs for your project.

That aside, I soldered the board up Saturday. The instructions are clear and concise. Now that the controller board was complete I needed a power supply that would be big enough to drive a couple of fans and 3 or 4 stepper motors. I had a couple of options as far as power supplies go. I could have used some computer power supplies and put three of them in series fro 36 Volts to poer everything and it would have been able to supply about 20 Amps.

Or my second choice would have to been to build my own. Most people who build a power supply from scratch generally make a simple filtered DC supply. The supply is not regulated and may not be pure DC. There could be small amounts of ripple seen on it if you scope it out. One caveat I may run into here is that I do not know what the current capacity of my transformer is.

The primary has a 2 Amp fuse on it and it steps it down to The Voltage ratio is If this is the case I will need to look at getting a different transformer or winding my own. I will use it though for testing until I can get another one. My basis for power requirement is calculated as follows: 4 Motors all of which are rated at 2 Amp per phase.

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JGRO CNC Router

They give valuable insight on how these machines work. Many of us are very visual people and it helps to see examples of these machines laid out on paper. Some plans are thorough enough to act as a complete blueprint from start to finish while others only offer bits of information. You may prefer to design and build your own machine. However, CNC router plans can still be a valuable resource.

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JGRO Router Build

If you, too, have come across some quality plan on the Internet, feel free to let us know, and we will include it in this collection of projects for making CNC machines. That means making a machine which is affordable, requires no special tools or skills to assemble, and which is easy to use. Your feedback about how to make these directions better is more than welcome. Building the machine is done in five steps.

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CNCzone is the douter the place to go for the best advice. Digitizing can be point to point, continuous curves, freehand drawing, lines, arcs, circles, and curve fitting between points. Use this control to limit the display of threads to those newer than the specified time frame. Not much to see yet. But the basic desgin is sound, and will work without modifications: Digitizing tablet sizes range from 44x60in xcm36x48in 90xcm24x36in 60x90cm20x24in 50x60cm12x18in 30x45cmand 12x12in 30x30cm. Used a pair of oillite flanged bearings in a loose fit hole, the flange is recessed and trapped by the pair of fender washers. First off, a big thanks to jgro for the most excellent plans.

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